How to Make a Nakiri Knife: Your Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Making a Nakiri knife can feel like a dream until you discover the edge won’t hold or the handle feels wrong. Many attempts fail because makers rush or neglect heat treatment. A true Nakiri, with its flat edge and vegetable-cutting balance, requires both traditional Japanese craftsmanship and modern precision. With patience and mastery of each step, you can forge a blade that rivals professional kitchen knives

Did you know? Sakai City has produced cutlery for over 600 years and is one of Japan's three major cutlery centers. (Source: Sakai City Traditional Crafts Museum, 2022)

1. Understanding the Nakiri Knife

The Nakiri knife is Japan's premier vegetable knife, featuring a distinctive rectangular blade with a completely flat cutting edge. Unlike curved Western chef knives, the Nakiri's straight profile creates clean, precise cuts through vegetables without rocking motions.

The name "Nakiri" translates to "vegetable cutter," reflecting its specialized design for vegetable preparation. Modern Nakiri knives typically measure 6- inches long with a blade height of 2 inches. The flat edge allows for efficient push-cutting motions, making it faster than curved blades for chopping cabbage, slicing daikon, or preparing stir-fry vegetables.

At Kasumi Japan, we continue this tradition, combining samurai sword-forging heritage with contemporary steel alloys like VG-10 for superior edge retention.

2. Materials Needed to Make a Nakiri Knife

Success in Nakiri making starts with selecting quality materials. Your steel choice determines the knife's performance, while handle materials affect comfort and durability.

1. Steel Options

High-Carbon Steels:

• 1095 Carbon Steel: Takes extremely sharp edges, requires regular maintenance to prevent rust
• W2 Steel: a high-carbon water-hardening steel with minimal alloy content, sometimes with small vanadium additions
• Blue Steel (Aogami): Japanese specialty steel with tungsten and chromium, used in premium knives

Stainless Options:

• VG-10: Excellent edge retention with stain resistance, standard in quality Japanese knives
• AEB-L: Swedish steel offering good sharpness and corrosion resistance

You can see our detailed comparison of Blue Steel vs VG-10 to understand which suits your Nakiri project best

2. Handle Materials

Choose materials that provide comfort and longevity:

• Hardwoods: Ebony, maple, or walnut offer traditional aesthetics and good grip
• G10 Composite: Lightweight, waterproof, and extremely durable
• Micarta: Resin-impregnated fabric that's comfortable and stable

3. Essential Tools

Your workshop needs these key items:

• Propane forge or coal forge for heating steel
• Belt grinder (2x72 inch preferred) for shaping
• Files and sandpaper (120-1000 grit progression)
• Heat treatment oven or forge for tempering
• Whetstones for final sharpening
• Drill press for handle pins
• Safety equipment (gloves, eye protection, respirator)

Pro tip: Many recommend 1084 as the best starter steel, with 1095 suitable once you’ve mastered quenching and temperature control.

3. Step-by-Step Guide to Making a Nakiri Knife

a. Designing & Template Making

Begin by creating an accurate Nakiri template. The traditional profile measures 165mm (6.5 inches) long by 50mm (2 inches) high with a completely flat cutting edge.

Draw your design on cardboard or thin wood, ensuring the spine runs parallel to the cutting edge. The tip should be square (square tip), with a vertical front face rather than a curved sheepsfoot profile. Mark the tang length and include the bolster area where the blade meets the handle.

Transfer this template to steel using a permanent marker or scribe. Double-check all measurements before cutting, as mistakes here compound throughout the process. Many successful makers create multiple templates in different sizes to find their preferred proportions.

b. Cutting & Profiling Steel

Stock removal works better than forging for beginners making Nakiri knives. The flat profile and precise geometry require careful metal removal rather than heavy hammering.

This provides material for both blade and tang with minimal waste. Use a band saw or angle grinder to rough-cut your profile, staying about 1/8 inch outside your final lines.

A belt grinder removes material quickly during profiling. Work slowly to avoid overheating the steel, as excessive heat before heat treatment can cause grain growth and surface decarburization, while grinding burns after heat treatment may reduce hardness and create softened zones. Quench frequently in water to keep the steel cool. The flat Nakiri profile makes this step more forgiving than curved designs.

c. Blade Shaping

Establishing the primary bevel requires patience and steady hands. The Nakiri typically uses a flat grind or slight convex grind, making it simpler than complex knife geometries.

• Mark your center line along the spine and edge.
• The primary bevel should extend from about 1/3 up the blade height down to the cutting edge. This creates a strong, sharp geometry perfect for vegetable prep.
• Use a belt grinder with a 120-grit belt for initial bevel establishment.
• Maintain consistent angles by checking frequently with a bevel gauge.
• The Nakiri's flat profile helps maintain uniformity—use the flat platen rather than contact wheels for best results.

Key technique: Work in sections, grinding 2-3 inches at a time. This prevents overheating and maintains better control over your angles.

d. Heat Treatment

Heat treatment transforms your steel blank into a functional knife blade. This process involves three critical stages: normalization, hardening, and tempering.

Normalization: Heat the blade to orange-red (around 1600°F) and let it air cool. This relieves stress from grinding and prepares the steel structure for hardening.

Hardening: Heat to critical temperature—1475°F for 1095 steel—until the steel loses its magnetic properties. Test with a magnet to find this point. Quench immediately in warm canola oil or water, depending on your steel type.

Tempering: Clean the blade with sandpaper to see color changes. Heat in your oven to 400°F for 2 hours (for 1095 steel). This reduces brittleness while maintaining hardness around 60-62 HRC.

Safety reminder: Always wear safety glasses and have a fire extinguisher nearby during heat treatment. Quenching oil can ignite if overheated.

e. Finishing the Blade

Final finishing transforms your heat-treated blank into a polished Nakiri ready for sharpening. Start with 220-grit sandpaper to remove scale and grinding marks.

Progress through grits methodically: 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000. Each grit should remove scratches from the previous grade. The Nakiri's flat surfaces make hand-sanding easier than curved profiles.

Polish the blade to your desired finish. Some makers prefer a brushed satin look, while others want mirror polish. Traditional Japanese knives often feature contrasting finishes—polished edge with rougher spine and sides.

Pro tip: Use a sanding block for flat surfaces to avoid creating unwanted curves. The Nakiri's geometry demands precise, straight lines. For the edge itself, follow a step-by-step guide on how to sharpen a Nakiri knife to achieve the ideal 10–15° per side angle.

4. Handle Crafting Techniques

Handle choice significantly impacts your Nakiri's performance and comfort. Japanese knives traditionally use wa-handles (cylindrical or octagonal wooden handles), while Western-style handles offer different ergonomics.

Wa-Handle Construction:

Wa-handles insert into a round tang opening, secured with epoxy. This style feels lighter and provides excellent control for precise cuts. Shape your handle wood into an octagon, roughly 18-25 mm in diameter and 125-140 mm long.

Drill the tang hole carefully—it should fit snugly without gaps. Use a drill press for accuracy, starting with smaller bits and working up to final size. Traditional makers use a hand drill and files for perfect fits.

Western Handle Style:

Western handles use full tang construction with handle scales attached to both sides. This creates a heavier, more robust feel preferred by some cooks.

Cut handle scales from your chosen material, leaving extra length for shaping. Drill pin holes through both scales and tang simultaneously for perfect alignment. Use corby bolts, brass pins, or mosaic pins for both function and appearance.

Assembly Tips:

• Sand all surfaces to 400 grit before assembly
• Use epoxy designed for knife handles—it bonds permanently
• Clamp securely and let cure for 24 hours minimum
• Shape the finished handle with files and sandpaper

5. Comparing Traditional vs. Modern Nakiri Making Techniques

Understanding the differences between traditional and modern approaches helps you choose the best methods for your project and skill level.

Traditional methods yield exceptional knives but demand years of training and rare materials. Master smiths, like those behind Kasumi Japan knives, perfect differential hardening to create the iconic hamon.

Modern techniques make Nakiri production more accessible—belt grinders speed beveling, ovens ensure consistent heat treatment, and commercial steels replace tamahagane.

Many makers blend both: modern tools for efficiency, traditional finishing for heritage. Your choice depends on goals, time, and available equipment.

6. Common Mistakes When Making a Nakiri Knife

Avoiding these frequent errors will save time and materials while producing better knives.

Design and Planning Mistakes:

• Making the blade too thick—Nakiri knives need thin geometry for efficient cutting
• Incorrect proportions—the blade should be roughly 3.0-3.7:1 length to height ratio
• Poor tang design—insufficient length or improper taper creates weak handles

Heat Treatment Errors:

• Overheating during hardening—causes grain growth and brittle steel
• Inadequate tempering—leaves blade too hard and prone to chipping
• Uneven heating—creates soft spots that won't hold an edge
• Wrong quenching medium—using water on high-alloy steels can cause cracking

Grinding and Finishing Problems:

• Burning the edge—overheating during grinding removes temper
• Uneven bevels—creates poor cutting performance and weak spots
• Skipping grits—rushing finish work leaves deep scratches
• Incorrect edge angle—too acute causes chipping, too obtuse reduces sharpness

Handle Construction Issues:

• Loose fit between tang and handle—creates dangerous failure point
• Poor pin alignment—weakens western-style handle attachment
• Wrong handle size—uncomfortable grip reduces cutting control

Prevention Tips: Take frequent breaks to assess your work objectively. Many mistakes happen when rushing or working tired. Keep detailed notes about temperatures, timing, and techniques, this helps identify problems and improve future knives.

7. Final Thoughts

Creating a Nakiri knife takes patience, detail, and respect for the process. Each step builds on the last, making quality control essential.

Successful makers value learning over speed—study traditional methods, use modern tools for consistency, and join communities for shared knowledge. Your first knife won’t match professional standards, but focus on mastering each step.

Document progress with photos and notes to track steel, heat treatment, and finishing. Start with simpler knives first to build fundamentals before attempting a Nakiri.

Quick fact: Most Japanese kitchen knives are sharpened to about 10–15° per side (20–30° total), narrower than typical Western blades. (Source: Escoffier: How to Care for Your Kitchen Knives, 2017)