Every Parts of a Japanese Knife: A Complete Guide

Your knife performs only as well as its weakest part—which means knowing the kissaki from the machi separates confident cooks from guesswork choppers. (And yes, that impressive Japanese terminology becomes second nature faster than you think.) What part of your knife do you check first when sharpening?

Understanding Japanese knife anatomy transforms how you select, maintain, and use these precision tools. Each component contributes to a symphony of form and function that defines performance in your kitchen. This guide covers blade parts, including kissaki, hasaki, hamoto, ago, shinogi, mune, hira, kireha, jigane, hagane, sori, kanji, and machi, plus handle components such as kuchigane, e, and ejiri, delivering the dual-language terminology chefs, home cooks, collectors, and sharpeners need for precise communication about quality, geometry, and care.

1. Parts of a Japanese Blade

The blade comprises interconnected components where steel choice, geometry, and craftsmanship determine cutting performance and maintenance needs.

The diagram below maps each blade part's Japanese and English names, location on the knife, and functional role.

Each component below receives detailed explanation regarding definition, function, handling, and maintenance considerations.

1. Kissaki (Tip)

The kissaki serves as the blade's pointed front, delivering precision for tasks where control matters more than force.

What it is:

The kissaki forms the converging point where the cutting edge (hasaki) meets the spine (mune). This front section appears as the sharp, tapered end of the blade. On traditional Japanese knives, the kissaki shape varies by style—yanagiba knives display an elongated, narrow point suited for sashimi work, while gyuto (chef's knife) tips present a broader, more pronounced curve.

Key roles:

You use the kissaki for precision cutting tasks, including:

• Trimming fat from meat or fish
• Scoring surfaces before slicing
• Creating garnishes that require detailed cuts
• Piercing tasks where the point must penetrate first

The kissaki enables you to work with control in tight spaces where the broader blade sections cannot reach.

Maintenance guide:

The kissaki represents the blade's most fragile section. Dropping the knife onto a hard surface chips or bends this point. Store your knife in a way that protects the tip, use a knife guard, magnetic strip, or slotted block. When cutting on a board, avoid downward stabbing motions that stress the point.

2. Hasaki (Edge)

The hasaki delivers every cut your knife makes, functioning as the honed, sharpened surface that runs from heel to tip.

What it is:

The hasaki constitutes the thin, razor-sharp line where steel has been ground and honed to slice through ingredients. This cutting edge forms the culmination of blade geometry; everything from core steel hardness to bevel angle converges at the hasaki.

Sharpness and maintenance:

You maintain the hasaki through regular honing and periodic sharpening. Single-bevel Japanese knives require sharpening at 10° to 15° on one side, while double-bevel knives use 15° to 20° angles on both sides. The hasaki dulls through use; each cut creates microscopic damage to the edge. You restore sharpness by removing steel to create a new edge geometry.

Performance factors:

Your technique adapts to the hasaki condition:

• A sharp hasaki slices cleanly with minimal downward pressure
• Dull edges crush cell walls in vegetables and tear meat fibers
• Edge stability depends on steel hardness: higher hardness (60-65 HRC) holds sharpness longer but chips more easily

Check edge sharpness by slicing a ripe tomato without applying downward force. A sharp hasaki cuts under its own weight.

3. Hamoto (Heel)

The hamoto forms the rear blade section, where width and thickness provide leverage for tasks requiring force or repeated impact.

What it is and where it is placed:

The hamoto occupies the widest part of the blade, positioned closest to the handle. This section sits opposite the tip and typically measures 1.5 to 2 times the width of the mid-blade area. The heel region includes the last 2 to 3 inches (5.08 to 7.62 centimeters) of the cutting edge before the ago (choil).

Key roles:

You rely on the hamoto for:

• Chopping through dense root vegetables, including carrots, turnips, and squash
• Breaking down poultry joints where cartilage requires force
• Rock-chopping herbs where blade weight assists cutting
• Initial entry cuts on hard foods, including cabbage and pineapple

The hamoto converts your downward hand pressure into cutting force through blade weight and edge angle.

Design distinctions:

Certain knife styles feature specific heel geometries. Nakiri knives display flat heels without curve, enabling vertical chopping motions that keep the entire edge in contact with the cutting board. Gyuto and santoku heels show moderate curves that balance rocking and push-cutting techniques.

4. Ago (Choil)

The ago provides the curved or angled section where the blade meets the handle, delivering knuckle clearance and grip control.

What it is:

The ago appears as the exposed blade section immediately before the handle junction. Traditional Japanese knives display a curved ago that flows smoothly from heel to handle, while Western-influenced designs show a right-angled notch. This section typically measures 0.25 to 0.5 inches (0.635 to 1.27 centimeters) in depth.

Key roles:

The ago serves three primary roles:

• Knuckle clearance: Prevents your hand from striking the cutting board during downward cuts
• Grip reference: Provides a physical landmark for pinch-grip finger placement
• Force transfer: Allows you to apply leverage on tough ingredients by positioning your index finger in the choil

Use tips:

Rest your index finger and thumb on the blade just forward of the ago when using a pinch grip. This placement positions your hand close to the cutting edge for maximum control. The ago depth determines how much clearance you maintain between knuckles and board—deeper choils suit cooks with larger hands or those who prefer higher hand positions.

Safety consideration:

Knives without adequate ago depth force your hand higher on the handle, reducing control and increasing the risk of knuckle contact with the board or ingredients.

5. Shinogi

The shinogi establishes the defining line between the blade's flat face and the angled bevel, creating the geometry that influences cutting behavior and food release.

What it is and where it is placed:

The shinogi appears as a distinct ridge or line running parallel to the cutting edge on single-bevel knives. This feature separates the wide, flat hira (blade face) from the ground kireha (bevel). Traditional Japanese single-bevel knives, including yanagiba, usuba, and deba, display prominent shinogi lines, while double-bevel Western-style knives lack this feature.

Key roles:

The shinogi determines:

• Bevel angle: The distance between shinogi and edge establishes primary grind angle
• Food release: The step created by the shinogi reduces suction between the blade and the ingredient
• Edge support: The shinogi provides structural backing that stabilizes the thin cutting edge

Cutting performance:

A well-positioned shinogi enables clean push cuts through fish and vegetables. The line creates a controlled separation point where food peels away from the blade rather than sticking. Yanagiba knives rely on shinogi geometry for single-stroke sashimi cuts that preserve texture.

Maintenance note:

When sharpening single-bevel knives, you maintain the shinogi line by removing steel only from the kireha section. Grinding above the shinogi alters blade geometry and compromises performance.

6. Mune (Spine)

The mune forms the blade's thick, unsharpened top edge, delivering structural strength and stability throughout cutting tasks.

What it is:

The mune runs along the top of the blade from handle to tip, opposite the cutting edge. This section maintains maximum steel thickness, typically 2 to 5 millimeters, depending on knife size and style. Hand-forged traditional knives often display thicker spines than factory-ground blades.

Key role

The mune provides:

• Rigidity: Prevents blade flex during cutting, particularly when working through dense foods
• Force distribution: Spreads impact stress across blade length rather than concentrating pressure at the edge
• Balance: Contributes to overall knife weight distribution for comfortable handling

Grip safety:

When using a pinch grip, your thumb rests along the mune near the handle. The rounded or flat spine profile affects comfort during extended prep sessions—sharp spine corners create pressure points, while rounded profiles distribute contact across your thumb pad.

Design variation:

Thin-spine knives (1.5 to 2.5 millimeters) suit slicing tasks and reduce drag, while thick spines (3.5 to 5 millimeters) on cleavers and deba knives provide the rigidity needed for cutting through bone (including fish bones).

If you want a deeper breakdown of spine geometry, read our guide on japanese knife spine.

7. Hira (Flat)

The hira constitutes the main broad face of the blade, functioning as the central surface that interacts with food during cutting.

What it is:

The hira spans the flat section between the spine (mune) and the primary bevel or shinogi line. This surface forms the largest visible area on the blade and displays the steel's finish. On single-bevel knives, the hira appears on the flat (non-beveled) side.

Functional impact:

The hira affects:

• Food release: Smooth finishes reduce friction, while textured surfaces (tsuchime hammer marks) create air pockets that prevent sticking
• Weight distribution: Wider hira sections add mass that assists chopping through momentum
• Blade strength: Thicker hira geometry increases rigidity for heavy-duty tasks

Note: The hira displays the knifemaker's finish work. You maintain finish quality by handwashing and drying immediately after use. Dishwashers and prolonged water contact create spotting and discoloration.

Sharpening relevance:

When sharpening, you maintain hira flatness on the flat side of single-bevel knives. Creating a back bevel or rounding the hira compromises the intended geometry.

8. Kireha

The kireha forms the wide, sloped bevel that transitions from the blade face to the cutting edge, determining grind geometry and sharpening technique.

What it is:

The kireha appears as the angled surface extending from the shinogi line (or blade face on double-bevel knives) down to the hasaki (edge). This section shows the primary grind that establishes the edge angle. On single-bevel Japanese knives, the kireha occupies one side only, typically the right side for right-handed users.

Grinding and sharpening:

The kireha width ranges from 5 to 15 millimeters depending on knife style and intended use. Wider kireha sections require more stone contact during sharpening but provide better edge support. You sharpen by maintaining consistent pressure across the kireha face, removing steel evenly from heel to tip.

Performance characteristics:

The kireha angle determines:

• Cutting ease: Lower angles (10° to 12°) slice effortlessly but chip more easily
• Edge durability: Higher angles (15° to 20°) resist damage but require more cutting force
• Task suitability: Delicate work demands acute angles, while general prep benefits from moderate angles

Maintenance: 

The entire kireha surface requires polishing for true sharpness. Creating a sharp edge at the hasaki while leaving the kireha rough produces an edge that dulls rapidly. Use progressively finer whetstones (400, 1000, 3000, 6000 grit) to refine the kireha from coarse grind to mirror finish.

9. Jigane (Cladding)

The jigane forms the soft iron or steel cladding that wraps around the hard core steel, delivering protection, flexibility, and the traditional kasumi (hazy) finish.

The table below compares jigane (cladding) and hagane (core steel) properties and functions.

Traditional construction:

Japanese bladesmiths forge jigane by hammer-welding soft iron around the hard hagane core. This San-Mai (three-layer) or Ni-Mai (two-layer) construction combines the best properties of both steels—the hard core holds a sharp edge, while the soft cladding absorbs impact shock and prevents edge chipping.

Aesthetic contribution:

The jigane creates the kasumi (haze) finish on traditional knives—the soft steel polishes to a cloudy gray appearance that contrasts with the bright hagane line visible at the edge. This visual distinction indicates authentic laminated construction rather than homogeneous steel.

Maintenance:

The jigane requires less aggressive polishing than the hagane core. When removing rust spots, focus cleaning efforts on the softer cladding using rust erasers or fine polishing compounds. Avoid removing excessive steel from the jigane, which can create uneven blade geometry.

10. Hagane (Core Steel)

The hagane constitutes the hard inner steel layer that forms the cutting edge, delivering the sharpness and edge retention that define Japanese knife performance.

Definition and composition:

The hagane appears as the bright steel line visible at the blade edge after polishing. Traditional Japanese knife steels include:

• White Steel (#1, #2, #3): High-carbon steel (0.80% to 1.35% carbon) with minimal alloys, delivering exceptional sharpness but requiring diligent rust prevention
• Blue Steel (#1, #2, Super): White steel plus chromium and tungsten for improved edge retention and toughness
• VG10: Stainless steel (1.00% carbon, 15% chromium) offering rust resistance with good edge-taking ability

If you’d like to explore other steel types as well, you can read our full guide: Japanese knife steels.

Performance characteristics:

Hagane hardness ranges from 60 to 65 HRC. Higher hardness enables you to achieve sharper edges that maintain cutting ability through extended use. This hardness comes with brittleness—drop a hard steel knife onto tile, and the edge chips rather than bends.

11. Sori (Belly)

The sori creates the curved section from heel to tip that enables rocking cuts, draw slices, and fluid cutting motions.

What it is:

The sori measures the blade's curvature along the cutting edge. Knife styles display varying sori profiles—gyuto shows moderate curve, santoku presents minimal curve, and nakiri features no curve (completely flat edge). The curve radius typically ranges from 8 to 12 inches (20.32 to 30.48 centimeters) on standard 8-inch (20.32-centimeter) blades.

Cutting technique:

The sori determines your cutting method:

• Rocking motion: Pronounced sori allows you to keep the tip on the board while raising the heel, creating the classic chef's knife rocking chop used for mincing herbs, garlic, and shallots
• Push cuts: Flat or minimal sori suits straight downward cuts where the entire edge contacts the board simultaneously
• Draw slicing: Moderate sori enables you to pull the blade toward yourself while cutting, using the curve to slice through proteins in one smooth motion

Greater sori appears on French and German chef's knives plus Japanese gyuto, supporting Western rocking techniques. Japanese vegetable knives (nakiri, usuba) eliminate sori entirely for precision vertical cuts. Yanagiba (sashimi knife) displays minimal curve optimized for single-stroke pull cuts.

Maintenance note: Maintain the existing sori profile when sharpening—overworking the heel or tip flattens the curve and alters cutting behavior.

12. Kanji (Blade Engraving)

The kanji consists of engraved Japanese characters stamped or etched on the blade, indicating maker identity, steel type, and production lineage.

What it is:

Kanji appears on the blade face near the handle, typically on the right side of the knife for right-handed models. These characters display the blacksmith's name, forge location, steel grade, or brand designation. 

Authentication role:

Kanji serves as a signature of craftsmanship. Reputable Japanese makers stamp their mark only on blades meeting quality standards. Counterfeit knives display poorly executed or meaningless characters—authentic kanji shows consistent stroke depth and proper character structure.

13. Machi

The machi forms the small gap or notch at the blade-handle junction, serving both functional and traditional design purposes.

What it is:

The machi appears as a deliberate space (typically 1 to 3 millimeters) between the blade tang and the handle opening. This gap exposes a section of bare tang at the junction point. Western knife designs eliminate the machi by fitting the handle flush against the blade shoulder.

Key roles:

The machi enables:

• Handle adjustment: Allows you to tap the handle further onto the tang if the wood shrinks or loosens over time
• Forging indicator: Signals hand-forged construction where the smith leaves adjustment space for final fitting
• Stress relief: Prevents the handle from cracking by avoiding rigid blade-handle contact during impacts

Did you know: 

When your handle loosens through wood shrinkage, you remove the handle, clean the tang, and tap the handle back onto the tang until it seats firmly. The machi provides the adjustment space for this maintenance. Knives without machi cannot be tightened without replacing the handle.

2. Parts of a Japanese Handle

Japanese handles (wa) display octagonal or oval wooden construction with hidden tang attachment, while Western-style handles (yo) feature full-tang designs with riveted scales. Components include the kuchigane (ferrule at blade junction), e (main handle body), and ejiri (end cap or pommel).

1. Kuchigane (Ferrule)

The kuchigane functions as the protective collar positioned at the blade-handle junction, preventing handle cracks and absorbing cutting impact.

What it is:

The kuchigane wraps around the handle's front end where the tang enters the wood. Traditional Japanese knives use water buffalo horn, brass, or plastic ferrules that measure 10 to 20 millimeters in length. The ferrule fits tightly around the handle opening, creating a compression ring that reinforces the wood grain.

Functional benefits:

The kuchigane provides:

• Crack prevention: Stops the handle from splitting when force transfers from the blade to the handle during chopping
• Impact absorption: Distributes shock across the ferrule rather than concentrating stress in the wood
• Moisture barrier: Seals the handle end against water penetration during washing
• Aesthetic signature: Premium knives feature decorative horn or pakkawood ferrules that signal quality construction

Material:

• Water buffalo horn ferrules darken with age and develop patina that many cooks value for aesthetic character.
• Plastic ferrules maintain consistent appearance and cost less.
• Brass or nickel-silver ferrules provide maximum durability on heavy-duty knives.

Maintenance:

Clean the ferrule-handle junction carefully—moisture trapped between the ferrule and wood causes handle rot. Dry this area immediately after washing.

2. E (Handle)

The e forms the handle's main body, establishing grip comfort, control precision, and overall knife balance through shape, material, and tang attachment method.

Construction types:

Japanese wa handles attach to hidden tangs (partial-tang construction) where the metal extends 60% to 80% of the handle length. Western yo handles use full-tang construction with metal extending the entire handle length, secured by rivets through handle scales.

Material options:

Common handle materials include:

• Magnolia (ho): Traditional Japanese wood, lightweight and water-resistant, develops patina over time
• Rosewood: Dense hardwood offering durability and grip texture, requires oiling to prevent drying
• Pakkawood: Resin-impregnated wood composite, moisture resistant, maintains appearance indefinitely

Shape and grip:

The table below contrasts wa and yo handle characteristics.

3. Ejiri (Handle End)

The ejiri constitutes the terminating piece at the handle's rear, shaped and rounded for palm comfort and sometimes weighted for balance adjustment.

What it is:

The ejiri forms the final 10 to 15 millimeters of the handle, appearing as a rounded or slightly flared end. Western-style knives call this component the pommel. The ejiri may be carved from the same wood as the handle body or consist of a separate end cap made from contrasting material.

Key roles:

The ejiri affects:

• Palm comfort: Rounded profiles prevent pressure points during extended prep sessions when the handle butt contacts your palm
• Balance weighting: Some manufacturers add metal inserts or denser wood to the ejiri for rearward weight distribution
• Aesthetic finish: Decorative end caps using buffalo horn, resin, or metal provide visual distinction and indicate premium construction

Design variations:

Japanese wa handles typically show simple, rounded ejiri sections that flow smoothly from the handle body. Western-style handles may display pronounced pommels with flat ends or textured surfaces. Chef's knives designed for rocking techniques benefit from lighter ejiri sections that shift balance forward toward the blade.

3. Conclusion

Knowing Japanese knife anatomy improves how you judge quality, maintain the blade, and use proper cutting technique. From the kissaki tip and jigane cladding to the e handle, each part serves a specific role in performance. The blade–handle relationship shapes balance, control, and durability; hagane core steel affects edge retention, while sori curvature supports your cutting motion.